Our family took its first trip to Costa Rica, opting for the 9 day itinerary to experience as much of the country during our children's winter break in the U.S. northeast. First, many thanks to our excellent KimKim travel planner Jessica for her responsiveness and advice pre-trip and the same availability and support during our trip. Over the 9 days we were able to cover the lush rain forest in La Fortuna/Arenal, the cloud forest high atop the mountains in Monteverde and the breathtaking Pacific coast beauty of tropical Manual Antonio. This itinerary allows you to fully experience each of the diverse climates in Costa Rica while traveling from the low altitudes in San Jose, up to the cooler and wind swept peaks and descend back down to finish the trip on sun drenched beaches.
RIDE CR provided all our transfers and we cannot recommend them enough for customer experience, timeliness and willingness to share history and knowledge of Costa Rica during our rides. To set expectations, the transfers between locations can be long ranging from 2-4 hours and often on windy roads with mind bogglingly steep inclines. If you are prone to motion sickness, it is worth preparing. This said, the long transfers are - ABSOLUTELY - worth every second and DO NOT let it deter you from making the journey.
The ride from San Jose took approximately 3 hours ascending through very windy and foggy roads (zero visibility at times) up the mountains and down into La Fortuna. In La Fortuna we stayed at the Tabacon Resort and Spa for 3 days. Tabacon's grounds are meticulously maintained and seemingly carved into the rain forest with perfect views of the breathtaking Arenal Volcano. Without a doubt, the gem of the Tabacon resort are the healing natural hot spas. Tabacon offers constant shuttles just around the corner to the spas only minutes away. I recommend walking to the spas (in your bathrobe ;)). The walk is 5-7 minutes and surrounded by gardens and the rain forest. The Tabacon hot spas are amazing, and it features many (often hidden) pools with an average temperature of approximately 98 degrees F. We elected to forgo an excursion to fully experience the spas for a day, even our teenage boys were happy with the decision. As a Tabacon guest you have access to ‘private’ pools in the Shangri La section of the hot spas. Less crowded and totally worth it.
Tabacon offers good options for food, but I recommend heading to downtown La Fortuna and eating at one of the local ‘sodas’. Eating at a ‘soda’ can feel like being invited into someone’s kitchen, the food is delicious and it’s a great experience, in addition to being much less costly than hotel restaurant prices. The Arenal Hanging Bridges tour is a must, and our tour guides were informative and greatly enhanced the experience by pointing out the flora and fauna. Walking the (6) hanging bridges is a ‘bucket list’ item and the spectacular views are inspiring.
On our 3rd day we left La Fortuna for a boat/bus trek across the man made lake surrounded by towering mountains and jungle, and up the mountain to Monteverde. The ride from La Fortuna to Monteverde is approximately 4 hours. Oscar from RIDE CR is a talented driver and navigated the impossible hills and turns in the bus effortlessly (at least it seemed that way). Oscar took a stop half way at a small soda in the mountains, where we got empanadas and stretched our legs. The stress of the grind quickly became a distant memory as we stood outside the soda surrounded by green mountains and deep valleys thousands of feet below.
Monteverde is special and worth every second of the journey to get there. Monteverde is windy (expected being a mile from sea level), and suggest packing some cool weather gear. The cooler temps of Monteverde is a welcome change from the more tropical climates below. Similar to La Fortuna, it is worth keeping a rain slicker in your backpack for the unexpected rain shower. Our original reservations were at Los Pinos - Cabanas & Jardines, but due to increased wind and fallen trees our cabin was no longer available. The staff at Los Pinos was extremely accommodating, found a room at another hotel and covered the cost. Our relocation was serendipitous, and we were fortunate to spend the next two wonderful days at Valle Escondido.
Valle Escondido offers 2 miles of cliff side trails with vistas of towering waterfalls and sheer cliffs. Access to the trails, the prime view to watch the sunset or endlessly stare miles away down the valley leading to the Pacific Ocean makes every moment at Valle Escondido precious. The onsite restaurant serves food made from ingredients grown on site, which also offers educational tours of the permaculture practice at the property. The food and the staff are excellent. While in Monteverde we visited Cloud Forest for a walking tour. Our guide Marvin was an encyclopedic compendium of information explaining the daily contributions many of the plants and inhabitants play in its life cycle. The Cloud Forest does contain a few hanging bridges, with equally stunning views as we experienced in Arenal. We were fortunate to see burrowing tarantulas sleeping during the day, millipedes slinking through the brush and toucanets eating on a branch.
With 4 days to go we left Monteverde trekking down the mountain to the ocean with our final stop in Manual Antonio. On our way down our driver stopped at the Tarcoles Bridge where you can view prehistoric crocodile sunbathing in the muddy beaches 40 feet below the bridge. The crocodiles are enormous and worth the stop (we also stopped on our way back to the airport from Monte Verde). At the Tarcoles Bridge there are a few options for food and souvenirs. The ride to Manual Antonio was short of 3 hours. We finished our trip at Tulemar in Manual Antonio, and we could not have asked for a better way to end an already amazing trip. Tulemar offers multi-level studios with full kitchens and multi room houses all carved into the steep jungle descent down to the warm Pacific Ocean.
Tulemar is fully immersed in the jungle, and we awoke each morning to have coffee on our deck to enjoy the views of the ocean, while watching a troop of 50 spider monkeys gather food for the day. The property is filled with wildlife including spider and howler monkeys, sloths, toucans, giant iguanas and capybaras. The beach is truly a hidden cove at the base of the hill below the resort. Tulemar offers shuttle service up and down the steep hill to the beach, but walking is a fine alternative and good exercise to work off the food and drinks. The downtown is fully accessible by foot from the hotel, with great grocery stores only minutes away. I recommend stocking up on snacks and making a daily trip to the grocery to cook in the more than adequate kitchens of each unit. Although we were on ‘vacation’, cooking meals in this gorgeous setting is a nice change and we enjoyed the ‘home away from home’ feel in such a special place. We spent 3 memorable days on the beach at Tulemar, and elected again to forgo some activities to soak in the beauty and vibe of Costa Rica.
The ride from Manual Antonio was a ‘quick’ two and half hour ride back to San Jose, which included a second stop at the Tarcoles Bridge.
The Pura Vida value of the Costa Rican people, the geography and simply stunning beauty of the country won my family’s heart and we fully intend to make this a recurring trip. I am counting the days to watch the sunset at Valle Escondido again. Truly appreciate KimKim and Jessica for organizing a great trip and all of our hosts in Costa Rica. Much love and Pura Vida!