3 cheers for Kimkim and especially for Irene!...
Spain
|
Nov 11 - Nov 28, 2022
3 cheers for Kimkim and especially for Irene! If we could give her 10 stars out of 5, we would. As 2 retired teachers who enjoy travel, had never been to Spain, and have enjoyed a number of organized small group tours, we wanted to plan an individualized trip to Andalusia. Enter KimKim, and specifically Irene, who is a local tour operator in the north of Spain. After sharing with her our preferences, she created an initial draft itinerary for us. We worked together on honing the plan for a number of weeks until we knew it was exactly what we wanted. Not only was Irene tireless in planning every detail of our guided tours, transfers, accommodations and special meals, while we were in Spain, she was available to us via WhatsApp and checked in every day to ensure that everything was going smoothly. We told her that she was like our mother hen and we were her little chicks. Thank you so much, Irene, for a perfect introduction to Spain! Next time will include Barcelona and Madrid!
Highlights of the tour included Malaga, Ronda, Arcos de la Frontera, Sevilla, Cordoba, and Grenada.
The Petit Palace Plaza Hotel in Malaga was right in the middle of the pedestrian centre of the old city. We wandered the meandering streets that were buzzing with people enjoying a coffee or beer and tapas in one of the many outdoor cafes and restaurants. We’ve never seen such a vibrant scene. After a short rest, we met our city guide, Pilar Domingo, who took us on a walking tour of the historical sites. Pilar was a superb guide, and she set the bar very high for all of the guides yet to come. We enjoyed seeing the Cathedral, Roman Amphitheatre and Alcazaba where we had our first taste of Andalusia’s colourful history. Not only was Pliar a wealth of historical and architectural knowledge, she pointed us to the restaurant with the best fried artichokes in town!
We took the train to Ronda where we were met by driver, Diego, who took us to the famous Parador Hotel. Our stay in Ronda gave us a couple of days to relax and explore on our own. The Parador sits majestically atop a huge gorge and beside the Puente Nuevo built in the 18th century across the 400 ft chasm. Points of interest in Ronda are the Bullring where we enjoyed our audio tour and the museum in the Palacio de Mondragon. We were so lucky to get a reservation at the highly rated tiny mother/daugther operated restaurant called Casa Maria. There is no set menu, just an array of fresh local produce from which they produce the most delicious 6-course meal, including wine pairings. Unbelievably delicious and great value.
Diego collected us again for our drive to Sevilla. En route, we met our guide, Cecille, who took us on a wonderful walking tour of Arcos de la Frontera, one of the many “white villages” in Andalusia. We wandered the narrow cobbled streets imagining all of the peoples who had conquered and controlled this area through history, Romans, Visigoths, Moors, Christians. What was harder to fathom was learning that they still practise the running of the bulls through those narrow steep streets! After a light lunch, Diego chauffeured us on to Sevilla.
Hotel Casa de Indias was another perfectly located hotel sitting adjacent to Las Setas, a huge sculptural structure resembling mushrooms. It was difficult to get lost with this landmark so prominent within the pedestrian streets of Seville. We had two very different tour experiences here. The first was a walking historical tour of the Cathedral and the Alcazar, led by the delightful Damiana. Her deep knowledge of art history was impressive and added to our appreciation of the Mudejar architecture that we were seeing in the palace. Later in the day, we met Manuel who took us to our first flamenco experience. The energy of show was riveting for us and Manuel was able to explain the importance of flamenco in the Spanish culture. He then took us to a local restaurant where we had our own tapas and wine tasting. Manuel was full of enthusiasm for his city and its culture.
We headed off to Cordoba on the super fast train. With only one day there, we had two more fantastic tours. First, we visited the Medina Azahara, the archeological restoration and remains of a palace/fortress and city built in the 10th century by Caliph ABD ar-Rahman III of the Umayyad dynasty. Unfortunately, this remarkable city was laid to waste during civil war that ended the caliphate in the early 11th century. The remains were discovered nearly 1000 years later. Our guide Enrique brought the remains of the city’s splendour back to life for us. His knowledge and enthusiasm were infectious and set the stage for our afternoon tour of the Mesquita. Known as the Mosque-Cathedral, beginning as an 8th century mosque on top of a visigothic church, later added to to become one of the largest mosques on the world, then having a cathedral built in the middle in the 16th century.! Luckily for us, our guide Jose, a practising archeologist, shared his vast knowledge and unsurpassed enthusiasm with us for over 2 hours. This was a fantastic experience. Our hotel, Las Casa de la Juderia, was delightful and perfectly situated in the old Jewish quarter.
Granada was another train trip away and was the icing on the cake! We looked up at the Alhambra from our room at Hotel Palacio Mariana Pineda. In our two final touring days we loved exploring the narrow streets leading up to the top of the Albacin where we watched the sun set over the Alhambra, the city, and the mountains. The Albacin is a neighbourhood of Grenada made up of meandering narrow streets built as early as the 13th century. While there, we were treated to some local musicians and dancer who performed flamenco for the gathered crowd. The following day, we had a wonderful tour of the Generalife (beautiful gardens, summer palace and country home from the 13th century built by the Nasrid rulers) and the Alhambra (11th century walled fortress/city and palaces built over time by the Muslims and reimagined by the Catholic Christians before being overtaken and damaged by Napoleon’s troops.) Even though we had rain while we walked through the gardens, we were spellbound. The whole complex of the Alhambra is stunning and a history lesson that would take more than one visit to fully appreciate. Once we finished the tour of the Alhambra, the sun came out for us when we climbed the watchtower where we had a spectacular view of the city and the Albacin. We could also see our hotel room! Our guide Maite was fantastic and delightful in her enthusiasm. On our last night in Grenada, we went to another flamenco show and dinner atop the Albacin.
While the organized portion of our trip was virtually over in Granada, Irene was still our faithful fairly godmother. We were driven from Granada to a private apartment on the coast owned by family friends where we stayed for another week. While we were there, we had another tour booked with Kimkim to visit wine and raisin country. Our guide Anna and driver Manu were very accommodating and we had a wonderful day driving through the mountains north of Malaga where we had a delicious wine tasting and got a flavour of the people who live and work so hard on the steep slopes of this beautiful part of the country.
We were fortunate enough to get tickets to watch Canada play Germany in the Davis Cup tennis held in Malaga. This entailed a bus trip there, but getting back to the apartment at night. Irene came to our rescue and arranged a driver to meet us outside the stadium in Malaga at 11 pm and drove us the hour’s drive back to the beach. She also arranged our return to Malaga the day before our 6 am flight, and she planned the most beautiful 6-course final dinner for us at the famous El Pimpi Restaurant.
We could not have been happier with our trip, from the initial planning through to our departure from Spain. We realize that we have barely scratched the surface of Andalusia let alone the whole country. More to come, and Irene is our gal!
Hotel Reviews
Location, location, location!
A beautiful, quirky old building. We kept getting lost, trying to find our room, but it was worth it and the staff were so helpful.
Activity Reviews
Pilar was outstanding.
A great place to stop en route to Seville. There are so many white villages in Andalusia, we enjoyed seeing such a pretty one.
Damiana was excellent, an art history student initially from Italy. She knew her history and was so enthusiastic. We loved the walking tour with her.
We weren't sure that we would enjoy the art of flamenco, but we were spellbound. It was thoroughly enjoyable.
The video about the archeological site before touring the real thing was very well done and worthwhile.
It is so important to see the Mesquita. Don't miss Cordoba.
We felt so fortunate having Maite guiding us. There were a number of large group tours and we knew that we were having a much richer experience having our private guide.
Once again, we were surprised by how much we enjoyed the flamenco, and the dinner was very good as well.
We felt we were at the winery off season and would likely have enjoyed the day even more had we seen more of the wine process. We did enjoy tasting the final product though!
As I said before, thanks to both of you for making it easy.
It has been very pleasant to work for you from the creation of the plan to your return home.
Thank you for not only helping us but also future travellers.
I hope we can work together again.
Irene