We had a fabulous trip to the north and west of Scotland

Scotland | Sep 6 - Sep 23, 2026

A very nice hotel in a good location for walking to central Inverness. Our room was exotic in that the bathroom, which was large and well-equipped, was down a winding staircase from the bedroom.

One of those classic old manor houses. Our room was spacious and had a very comfortable sofa on which I could sit and relax. It's an odd omission, but there was no desk chair in the room, so my laptop computer really was a laptop computer. The staff was superb, the dinner excellent.

We very much enjoyed our stay at the Scourie House because the people were so nice. It's not fancy - a well maintained older hotel that was probably built as an inn. Our room wasn't that big, so suitcase space was at a premium. But what the room may have lacked in upscale fashion, the staff made up in friendliness. And the food in the restaurant was very good.

At every level, the Dipping Lugger is amazing. They think of everything. The room was gorgeous, the bed super-comfortable. The food was spectacular! There are only 3 rooms, but this is luxury writ large and in a comfortable, not ostentatious way. The only quirk is that they pick your meals - dinner is a fixed 7 course meal (and what a meal it is!) (the bread I will NEVER forget) and breakfast is chosen for you. It's all more than good, but maybe not what you would have picked. Just an idiosyncrasy, not a problem.

The Broad Bay House is a purpose-built small inn near Stornoway. Super clean and well equipped. Tom, the owner, has thought of everything any traveler could need. He has loads of material about Lewis and Harris, and has prepared a guide book that reflected his deep knowledge of the area. Breakfasts were excellent, esp. the porridge. And we had the seafood passed-plate meal for dinner one night. The location is right on the beach, and it's worth going for a walk past the sheep.

Grand in every regard. "Regal" might also fit. As characterful as the 1890s style would suggest, while still having every modern convenience. Those towels - so soft, so absorbent - and that shower. Ahhh, satisfaction. Both restaurants are excellent (Bo and Muc is more casual, 1889 a multi-course extravagance). Breakfasts are, as you would expect, very good, although our omelets were a bit under-done. We went hiking with the Torridon Outdoor Experience, and it was an excellent walk near the hotel. We also hiked the hotel grounds, which are extensive and very pretty.

This is an elegant old manor house on a private island. The house is charming, although our room was up several flights of stairs. The room itself was well equipped and comfortable. The grounds are gorgeous and worth more than the afternoon's walk that we took. The Terrace Restaurant was quite good. Not formal and all small plates (not tapas, just small plates).

We were in a smallish upstairs room with a fairly small double bed. There is a severe deficiency of electrical outlets for the modern traveler. We unplugged the hotels lamps and coffee pot so that we'd be able to charge phones and the like. The staff were very nice and helpful, opening for breakfast early so that we could sprint to the ferry in Port Askaig in a timely manner. The restaurant is good and locally popular. The bar, on the other hand, is a whisky lover's dream. Also popular, for good reason.

Lots of atmosphere and a great location adjacent to Luss and short walk to the Loch. Our room was up several flights of stairs, but the bellman was very helpful in carrying our suitcases up. A smallish room and smallish bed. The shower was powerful (loved that) and sprayed widely into the bathroom (which I didn't like). Lots of plugs, unlike some older hotels. The restaurant was good, and the bar was fine. You order in the restaurant and carry your whiskey to the library where there are chairs.

We were at the Marmelade Hotel so briefly that I hate to say anything negative. The room was very comfortable and well equipped, and we fell asleep almost the moment we hit it. Breakfast was fine.

We had rough seas, so the boat trip was a blend between visiting the Summer Isles and doing dolphin and seal watching. There was a guide, but she didn't speak very often, and English wasn't the boat driver's primary language.

We had a great walking tour of the Shieldaig Peninsula. The guide pointed out interesting natural features as we went. I would say his knowledge of plants was greater than birds, but he did well with both (in our couple, one of is more birder, the other more a plant person). The walk was sane topographically, and quite pretty.

Sadly we didn't go. It was raining and most of the interesting birds have flown the coop (well, the island). However, we used the day to see the spectacular Allt Chranaidh Waterfall and breathtaking B869 to Drumbeg and Lochinver. Breathtaking both in beauty and in the twisty-turny uphill-downhill single track road. That drive would get 5 stars, so our substitution was sound from my point of view.

By September, most of the interesting birds have wandered on. Better to spend time in John O'Groats and at Duncansby Head (spectacular!). I'll bet this is wonderful place to bird in Spring and earlier in the summer.

The highlights on this leg were Smoo Cave (a must) and the Strathnaver Museum in Bettyhill, also a must-see. The museum tells the story of the highland clearances in a very personalized way that provides real emotional impact. The drive from Thurso to Scourie is mostly single track roads, so be psychologically prepared. And know the rules of single tracking. Too many people don't understand it.

Our guide, Donald Matheson, was fantastic! He's a lifelong resident of Lewis, and he knew every nook and cranny, every bit of history. He was a wealth of fascinating information. This was a delightful day. We went to the north end of Lewis and worked our way back, stopping at museums, Ness Harbor, the Carloway Harris Tweed mill, black houses, and standing stones. We skipped Callanish because we had seen it the day before on our own. A completely memorable day. I highly recommend Donald as a guide.

Again, Donald Matheson was a great guide. We loved seeing Harris. Harris isn't about history the way Lewis is - it's scenery. And the scenery and beaches are beautiful. Donald was aware I'm a photographer, and he made sure to stop at appropriate places so I could take pictures. A very memorable day - one of the highlights of our trip.

it was hard to believe a canyon this deep is so close to Ullapool. We spent extra time here, birding and enjoying the scenery. We also had lunch at the visitor center cafe (shared outdoor picnic tables).

We walked through the Loch Gruinart trails a bit to quickly to find birds. Dougie knew the area well - he used to live there - and he had fascinating stories about the history. But he could have had more awareness of how birders like to walk through a preserve.

A great distillery tour! Understand that I almost never say that because all distillery tours have the same core content. You get the local nuance, but the stills, fermenters, washbacks, and the like, are pretty much the same. This tour had a great guide (Darren) who was funny and knowledgeable, and it included four serious samplings of Kilchoman whisky at key places on the tour. It made it much more fun!