Hacienda El Porvenir, Cotopaxi

• You'll stay on a remote, working ranch, nestled between four volcanoes at the edge of Cotopaxi National Park.
• The historic hacienda is full of traditional Andean charm, with red adobe walls, a thatched straw roof, and open fireplaces. 
• Recently-renovated Suites are spacious and inviting, with Andean textiles, regional art, and fireplaces or wood stoves.
• Mealtimes showcase classic Ecuadorian recipes made with local ingredients (some grown on the property).
• The small spa includes hot tubs, cold pools, and a sweat lodge heated by volcanic rocks.
• Guests can rent bikes, book horseback riding adventures, or try their luck on the ropes courses.

• This is a rustic, working hacienda; rooms are comfortable and charming, but don't expect modern hotel amenities.
• WiFi and cell service are very limited.
• There's no central heating—rooms have space heaters or fireplaces (lit each afternoon by staff).
• The property is reached via a long dirt track, and the ride can be bumpy.

Authenticity

This sprawling highland hacienda was purchased by Isabelle Escudero in 1913 and named for what society thought of her bold venture at the time: "no hay porvenir" ("it has no future"). Five generations on, the family still owns this working ranch, where horses and cattle graze in the shadow of the snowcapped Cotopaxi volcano, and traditional straw-roofed adobe farm buildings surround a central cobblestone courtyard. Guests are welcomed with warm hospitality and an authentic taste of chagra (cowboy) culture—rooms include handwoven ponchos for cool Andean nights, meals feature dairy produced on-site, and the stables are just next door for when you're ready to mount up and start exploring.

Location

El Porvenir sits at an altitude of 11,811 feet (3,600 m) above sea level on the slopes of the Rumiñahui volcano. It's a spectacularly scenic spot, surrounded by 2,500 acres (1,000 ha) of windswept páramo grasslands and four volcanoes (including Cotopaxi), but it's remote—the closest town is Machachi, about a 30-minute drive west. You're just 2.4 miles (4 km) from the northern entrance of Cotopaxi National Park, and it's about a 2-hour drive north to Quito and its international airport. As you near the hacienda, the roads shift from paved to cobblestones to rough dirt tracks; be prepared that it can be a bumpy ride

Rooms & Bathrooms

You'll find 22 guest rooms spread throughout the main farmhouse and the adjoining courtyard buildings. Each is unique, but all have a cozy, inviting feel, with plank floors or sisal carpets, handmade furniture, traditional textiles, and local art. Bathrooms are simple but modern, with hot showers. Compact Traditional rooms are the most rustic; Junior Suites add a sitting area and a little more space, while Master Suites are the standouts with large picture windows and the best views. There's no central heating, so expect space heaters in the traditional units and wood stoves or fireplaces in the suites. Staff light fires each afternoon and add heating pads or hot water bottles to beds in cooler weather.

Amenities

The remote setting means guests will need to take all meals at the hacienda. Breakfast is included in the rate, and lunch and dinner are served in one of two dining rooms in the main farmhouse. The kitchen's simple, flavorful take on traditional Ecuadorian dishes gets rave reviews from past travelers, and dietary restrictions and allergies are well accommodated. On-site activities include cooking classes, bike rentals, ropes courses, and guided horseback rides on the ranch's string of well-trained mounts. After a day of outdoor adventure on the páramo, you can stroll across the courtyard to the small spa, complete with hot tubs, cold pools, a sweat lodge heated by volcanic rocks, and massage treatment rooms. 

Family-Friendliness

Hacienda El Porvenir welcomes children, and it's an ideal spot for active and outdoorsy families. Kids can enjoy the outdoor playground, brave the low ropes course (for ages 6-12), and join horseback riding and biking excursions. Young animal lovers will love meeting the resident llamas and dogs, and visiting the adjoining stables. Family Suites are the best option for larger groups, with one king bed and two sofa beds.