San Gerardo de Dota
Costa Rica
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Aug 9 - Aug 14, 2025
The surest way to ruin (a) paradise is to advertise it. I’m tempted to keep the secret and hope that nothing changes. However, I will let the cat out of the bag because that is what the residents of San Gerardo de Dota, Costa Rica want. They made a conscious decision to forgo land clearing agriculture and to earn their living by providing high quality eco-tourism experiences.
This family trip was literally thrown together in two weeks and we lucked into a Costa Rica travel agency (Serendipity Adventures) that took care of everything except our flights.
What is paradise? Different people have different preferences but the my family believes in escaping Texas heat in August. But, doesn’t it get hotter further South? Probably but not if you are in the mountains of Central America.
I was looking at the better-known Monteverde cloud forest region NW of San Jose but Serendipity encouraged San Gerardo de Dota which is about the same distance but SE of the capitol.
My only issue was traffic in and around San Jose. We arrived on a Saturday and a 2 ½ hr drive turned into over 4 hours because San Jose was a parking lot and we have to go cross town from the airport. Our driver explained that people can drive on alternating days based on license plate numbers but no restrictions on Saturday when everyone gets in their car and becomes part or a city-wide parking lot. One we cleared the twin cities of San Jose and Cartago we found smooth sailing on the Pan American Hwy. The Pan Am had very fresh smooth asphalt (if I were driving I would want my Porsche). What the two-lane Pan Am lacks is consistent striping, shoulder, guard rails or passing lanes. If you leave the road there are three possibilities: 1) hit a ditch and roll over, 2) hit something hard like a very big tree; or 3) drop 2,000 feet and maybe the forest canopy below might slow your descent. No worries, we were in the care of a local driver. Getting back on a weekday was one hour faster but there were still massive traffic jams in San Jose. Tip, don’t fly on Saturday in or out of San Jose.
The road to San Gerardo de Dota and the Savegre Hotel and Narutal Reserve & Spa departs the Pam Am at 9.800 ft elevation and follows the narrow Savegre river. The resort is 6 miles below at about 7.200 ft, and about a mile above Savegre Falls. The road is about 50% paved and full of hairpin turns,,,but I wasn’t driving. There are about ½ dozen resorts and some Air B&B’s in the valley. Savegre Hotel is the oldest but also very modern, completely equipped i.e. great Wi Fi, Thursday night football in the bar, a spa, guided or self-guided tours through a private reserve, excellent staff, comfortable accommodations and so forth. Very good menu.
Tip. Don’t rent a car. Let a local drive.
You can read the Hotel Savegre backstory several places on the Internet. A condensed version is that the valley was undiscovered until the mid-1950’s. No evidence of prior human occupation. The first settlers cleared land for cattle, then a professor came along and said, why don’t you throw trout into the (fish free) river and Canadians will fly down here to pay to catch them. Later on the locals were encouraged to give up on cattle and take up hospitality. Within 30 years the cleared land regenerated back to forest.
So what is there to do: eat, relax, drink, hike, hike, hike, night hikes and go birding. I have never been a dedicated birder but, I knew where I was going so I bought a new super tele camera for the occasion. That was a good decision.
We spent two days hiking and birding, include a night hike with Raul Chacon who is the best nature guide that I have met and that is saying a lot. Excellent English, extremely well educated and knowledgeable and passionate without being overbearing in the least. He finally admitted that his grandfather and great uncle discovered the valley and established the community and resort. Raul has been finding Quetzals, Motted Owls and 49 varieties of Hummers for his whole life except when he was away at school.
So what to do in 4 ½ days? A couple of hikes above 10,000’ (epiphany, no acclimation issues because there is more oxygen at altitude compared to the Rocky Mountains further north), a hell of a lot of pretty birds to photograph, hikes to waterfalls, a trip to a coffee plantation, the most challenging horseback ride that I have been on, learning all about cloud forests, the local economy and people, and making plans for a return visit to Costa Rica at some point.
Hotel Review
Given the remote location it exceeded expectations
Activity Reviews
Raul Chacon is excellent guide
Coffee tour was fine but too much travel to and from Hotel Savegre.
Thank you for taking the time to write a thoughtful review. We would love to see the photos that you shot with your new camera!
Thank you
Holden Ketchum
Serendipity Adventures