Rancho Naturalista, Turrialba

Pros

• The remote lodge outside Turrialba is renowned for its birding, with 250 different species spotted from its veranda and over 450 in the surrounding nature reserve.
• Rooms in the main colonial-style lodge are full of character, with hardwood paneling and handcrafted furnishings.
• For a more secluded feel, you can opt for a standalone cabin or a duplex casita.
• Meals are a highlight, served family-style and featuring lots of local produce and fresh fruit.
• You can explore the surrounding nature reserve via an extensive network of hiking trails or book an expert birding guide for an added fee.

Cons

• The remote location means there are no nearby amenities or dining options.
• Expect a winding and bumpy (though scenic) ride to reach the lodge's hillside setting.
• There's no heating or air-conditioning in the rooms, though the mild climate means they're rarely needed.
•  WiFi is only available in the lodge's living area. 

Authenticity

California transplants Cathy and John first opened Rancho Naturalista's doors in 1987; today, it's managed by their daughter Lisa, who continues the tradition of warm hospitality and world-class birding. The main colonial-style lodge has a traditional, homely feel, with stucco walls, red tile floors, and handmade furniture; welcoming sitting areas and a bird-themed library encourage guests to grab a seat and chat with their fellow travelers. Meals are a cut above the usual, with a set menu of beautifully presented and locally-sourced dishes served at communal tables overlooking the patio's birdfeeders.

Location

The lodge sits within dense forest on a remote hillside, about 45 minutes southeast of Turrialba in Costa Rica's ecologically diverse Cartago province. You'll be surrounded by 160 acres (65 ha) of private nature reserve, which you can access via the miles of hiking trails, but don't expect easy access to other amenities or dining options. San José and its international airport are about a 3-hour drive west, and most travelers get a taxi or transfer from the airport, or take a bus to Turrialba and a taxi to the lodge. 

Rooms & Bathrooms

There are just 15 rooms at Rancho Naturalista, spread across the main lodge and a selection of small cabins and casitas. Each is named for one of the region's endemic birds, and all are decorated in a simple but inviting style with bright textiles and handmade furnishings. The lodge's upper-story rooms have the most character, incorporating local hardwoods and colorful avian art; some include balconies with bird feeders and views of the Turrialba volcano. You can also book one of the secluded cabins or a duplex casita for a more contemporary feel and more privacy. Bathrooms are plain but functional, with walk-in showers.

Amenities

You won't find hotel-like amenities at this remote ecolodge, though it provides everything you need for a few days of nature hikes and birding treks. All meals are included in the rate, and the gourmet, home-cooked offerings are a cut above the standard fare. A dinner bell calls guests to communal tables each evening for a three-course meal made with meat, dairy products, and produce sourced from nearby farms. Dietary restrictions are well catered to, and the desserts and freshly-made baked goods are a perennial hit. You can arrange your own bird guides or book expert-led hikes through the hotel, and there's an inviting lounge area with WiFi and a library filled with avian-themed reference books.  

Family-Friendliness

Rancho Naturalista welcomes families, but the remote setting and focus on birding mean it's best-suited to adventurous, outdoorsy adults and teens.

Wildlife

Birds are the stars of the show here, and of the 450 species recorded on the property, the hummingbirds are of particular note. Expect to see iridescent wonders like snowcaps, black-crested croquettes, purple-crowned fairies, and garden emeralds, which flock to the sugar feeders and fragrant verbena bushes surrounding the lodge. The reserve is also one of the best places to find rarer avian specimens like the tawny-chested flycatcher and the white-crowned manakin. You might spot mammals like coatis, agoutis, and tayras, plus rare amphibians and diverse insects (amateur lepidopterists can ask the lodge to turn on their evening moth light for a nocturnal show).