Welcome to the greenest part of Emerald Isle. Untamed, uncrowded, and unspoiled, Ireland's northwest is one of the most diverse wildernesses in Europe. Threaded with miles of empty roads, it's ripe for exploring by car. On this 12-day self-drive trip, you'll head directly west from Dublin and journey north up the Wild Atlantic Way into a world of dramatic peninsulas, flower-specked marshland, sacred mountains, and Neolithic monuments.

Highlights

  • Hike spectacular coastal paths, including Ballycroy National Park trails
  • See ancient sites, from Sligo's sacred royal tomb to Donegal's hilltop fort
  • Walk among mountains in Glenveagh National Park, and enter the Poisoned Glen 
  • Take the ferry out to Tory Island to experience its unique culture and birdlife

Brief Itinerary

Day Highlights Overnight
Day 1 Arrive in Dublin, Dublin Walking Tour Dublin
Day 2 See the Book of Kells & Trinity Long Room Dublin
Day 3 Drive to County Mayo, Visit Rathcroghan Mayo
Day 4 Explore Ballycroy National Park, Stargaze at Dark Sky Reserve  Mayo
Day 5 Sligo's Ancient Sacred Sites: Knocknaree & Carrowmore Sligo
Day 6 Explore County Sligo & Leitrim Sligo
Day 7 Drive to Ardara: Sliabh League Pilgrims Path & Ardara Waterfalls  Ardara
Day 8 Drive to Dunfanaghy, Visit Glenveagh National Park & Castle Dunfanaghy
Day 9 Boat Trip to Tory Island Dunfanaghy
Day 10 Visit Grianan of Aileach, Drive to Carlingford Carlingford
Day 11 Discover Legends of "The Wee County," Drive to Dublin Dublin
Day 12 Visit the Guinness Storehouse & Depart  

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Dublin, Dublin Walking Tour

Experience historical treasures and modern areas like the Silicon Docklands
Dublin's modern Silicon Docks

Welcome to Dublin, the lively capital of the Republic of Ireland and home to a third of its population. After transferring to your hotel, it's time to head out and explore. Put on a comfortable pair of shoes and learn more about the capital through the lens of a Dubliner during a two-hour walking tour. You'll meet a local historian who will provide an overview of the city's rich history, from its early origins as a Gaelic village to the arrival of the Vikings, Normans, and English. Along the way, you'll also learn about great pubs and restaurants and get the answers to questions about modern life in Dublin today.

Stand on the bridge over the River Liffey to see modern developments, such as the Silicon Docks. Make your way through the Temple Bar district, where a bohemian music and arts community guarantees a jubilant atmosphere any time of year. Then, visit Wood Quay, the site of archaeological excavations in the 1970s and '80s that revealed the largest Viking settlement outside Scandinavia.

Day 2: See the Book of Kells & Trinity Long Room

Long Room Trinity College
The Long Room at Trinity College

The Book of Kells at Dublin's university, Trinity College, is one of the must-sees on today's guided walking tour. This remarkable illuminated manuscript is one of the oldest in the world, dating back to 800 CE. It contains the four Gospels of the New Testament and was created by Irish monks using local organic paints and inks. The illustrations are breathtaking, incorporating Celtic, Byzantine, and Saxon artwork.

In the library's wood-built Long Room (used as a filming location for the "Harry Potter" movies), you can walk among 250,000 of Ireland's oldest books and documents. Also on display at the library is the original 15th-century Brian Boru Harp. This iconic instrument is featured on the Guinness Logo, and it has become the official emblem of the Irish Republic.

Day 3: Drive to County Mayo, Visit Rathcroghan

Look out across Clew Bay's 365 islands at sunset

It's time to venture across Ireland's green inland to today's destination of County Mayo on the west coast, so jump in your rental car and begin your road trip. On the way, pull up in Rathcroghan, a complex of ancient ruins associated with the warrior Queen Maeve of Irish mythology. Enter the cave of Oweynagat ("Cave of the Cats"), the site of the entrance to the Otherworld, or the "Gate to Hell," according to folklore.

Nearby, visit Strokestown Park and its museums, where you can learn about the Great Famine and discover what life was like for society's different classes in the 18th and 19th centuries. Back in the car and westward bound, you have a choice of checking into a castle (the neo-Gothic Belleek Castle) or a cheerful hotel in Westport. Regardless, carve out time to enjoy Westport, a popular Georgian town on the banks of an Atlantic inlet. It's known as "Ireland's most musical town," so catch a band in one of its lively pubs. 

You could also take the short drive to Clew Bay, where 365 islands—one for every day of the year—are scattered off the coast. Ride the local ferry to reach Clare Island to see the castle where Ireland's famous Pirate Queen, Grace O'Malley, spent her childhood. 

Day 4: Explore Ballycroy National Park, Stargaze at Dark Sky Reserve 

Drive through the windswept peatland of Ballycroy National Park

You'll spend a second night in Mayo to explore its remote corners before you begin the journey north. Head to Ballycroy National Park for one of Ireland's best coastal hikes, with the Atlantic on one side and miles of rare blanket bog (a type of peatland) and mountains on the other. A series of boardwalks across the peat means you won't even get your feet wet! This otherworldly landscape inspired the myth of the Children of Lir, so read up on the eerie tale before you head out on your walk.

After dinner, make your way to the area's Dark Sky Reserve for an evening of stargazing. A 58-square-mile (150 sq km) expanse across Ballycroy National Park and Wild Nephin Wilderness, it formed Ireland's first gold-tier international-credited dark sky reserve in 2016. Information signs point to you the best spots to gaze at the Milky Way, the Andromeda Galaxy, and in winter, the constellation of Orion. On clear nights, more than 4,500 stars glitter in the light pollution-free skies.

Day 5: Sligo's Ancient Sacred Sites: Knocknarea & Carrowmore

Knocknaree
Hike up to Queen Maeve's Cairn on Knocknarea
Plan your trip to Ireland
Chat with a local specialist who can help organize your trip.

Today you'll set off up the Wild Atlantic Way until you reach County Sligo, where you'll spend the next two nights. Sligo epitomizes the drama of the west coast, with its windswept headlands and powerful waves crashing onto wide golden shores. The green hills and misty mountaintops seem to roll into the sea. This ancient landscape is also dotted with historical sites, with cairns, graves, castles, and monuments surviving the elements for centuries.

Head straight to Knocknarea and Carrowmore, two renowned ancient sacred sites. You can't miss Knocknarea as you drive around, with the 1,050-foot (320 m) mound dominating the horizon. Lace up your hiking boots and climb its slope to the tomb known as Queen Maeve's Cairn. This queen of the west reigned for 60 years, sometime between 50 BCE and 50 CE. She spends her eternity here, reportedly upright and wearing her armor. As Knocknarea stands on the peninsula of Cúil Írra Peninsula, the summit also delivers incredible ocean views.

After, pay a visit to Carrowmore, the largest cemetery of megalithic tombs in Ireland, also on the Cúil Írra Peninsula. Walk among its stone tombs, as well as forts and standing stones. The origins of these monuments reach far into prehistory—the most ancient among them is 6,000 years old.

Day 6: Explore County Sligo & Leitrim

Classiebawn Castle
Fog rolling in over the hills around Classiebawn Castle

Spend the day exploring more of Sligo's dramatic landscape. If the weather's dry, take a walk on one of the vast beaches, like Mullaghmore. As well as being famed for some of the world's largest surfable waves, from a distance, you can see the gothic-looking Classiebawn Castle. This was the holiday home of British Royal Louis Mountbatten until he was assassinated nearby in 1979. 

Driving through a remote landscape of mountains and lakes, stop off at Lough Gill's eastern shore, just across the border in County Leitrim. Here, you can visit Parke's Castle, which has been restored to its original 17th-century style. A little farther north is the smaller lough (lake) of Glencar, where it's worth a stop to marvel at Glencar Waterfall. This 164-foot (50 m) fall looks ethereal with its fine white spray and features in WB Yeats'  poem "The Stolen Child."

Day 7: Drive to Ardara: Sliabh League Pilgrims Path & Ardara Waterfalls 

Sliabh Liag
Check out Sliabh Liag Pilgrims Path for dizzying clifftop views

Set off up the coast to County Donegal's Slieve League (or Sliabh Liag) Peninsula, around an hour's drive away. The heritage town of Ardara is your base for the night. It may be small, but it's big on the traditional music scene—catch a local band at The Ceili House Bar or come for its renowned Cup of Tae Irish music festival in May.

Half an hour's drive south of Ardara, you can pick up the Sliabh Liag Pilgrims Path for a hike to cliffs rising 1,972 feet (601 m) from the Atlantic—some of Europe's highest sea cliffs. On this 2.5-mile (4 km) linear trail, you'll be following in the footsteps of ancient pilgrims who were on their way to McBric's Church, which is still there today. You'll also be able to see ruins of the monks' stone dwellings, known as beehive huts.

The coastline around the town is also dotted with "secret" coves and beaches. Head to Maghera Beach and Caves, accessed via steps during low tide, or visit the horseshoe beach of Silver Strand. On the south side of the peninsula is Largy Waterfall, where the water plunges into a secluded coastal cave. Assaranca Waterfall and Owenree Waterfall are also beautiful if you're not up for the slippery hike to the cave.

Day 8: Drive to Dunfanaghy, Visit Glenveagh National Park & Castle

Spend some time exploring the grounds of Glenveagh Castle

County Donegal has so much to offer, and you'll stay in this area for another two nights but at a base farther north—the small town and former fishing port of Dunfanaghy. Discover one of Donegal's prized treasures along the way—the 35,000-acre (16,000 ha) Glenveagh National Park.

Deep in the Derryveagh mountain range, you'll walk in the shadow of the park's highest point, the 2,464-foot (751 m) peak of Errigal. Explore the surrounding glens, native oak woods, and pristine lakes, either on foot or by bike. It's also a haven for wildlife, so look out for the large herd of red deer or golden eagles swooping overhead. 

The focal point of the park is the impressive Glenveagh Castle. The mansion opened as a romantic highland retreat in 1873 and has hosted many famous guests, including Marilyn Monroe and John Wayne. After exploring the grounds' Gothic Orangery, and Tuscan Garden, have lunch in the pretty tea room—then, if the weather is nice, join a relaxing boat cruise on the lake. From the castle, it's less than half an hour's drive up to Dunfanaghy.

Day 9: Boat Trip to Tory Island

Tory Island
Take a day trip to Tory, Ireland's most remote inhabited island

Today, board a ferry from Magheroarty Pier near Dunfanaghy to make the 45-minute crossing to Tory Island. Relax with a picnic and enjoy your final day on Ireland's west coast, absorbing the island culture. This is one of myriad tiny, Irish-speaking islands off the Donegal coast. In fact, Tory is Ireland's most remote inhabited island and has its own distinct customs, including an archaic tradition of elected kingship. Occasionally the king of Tory himself welcomes visitors beside the pier. 

The island is rich with folklore, too: according to legend, a demon called Balor of the Evil Eye dwelled here. But there'll be no thoughts of demons when you take in the awe-inspiring view from the lighthouse all the way to the 12th-century Tau Cross. Bring your binoculars, as this bird haven is one of the few remaining breeding sites for the globally-threatened corn crake species. 

Day 10: Visit Grianan of Aileach, Drive to Carlingford

Find ancient ruins along the dramatic Inishowen Peninsula

Drive for an hour to the entrance of the Inishowen Peninsula on the north coast. Here, you'll find the impressive Grianan of Aileach, a hillfort atop the 801-foot (244 m) Greenan Mountain. It's said to have been built in 1700 BCE and served as the high kingdom of Ailech's royal seat for 500 years.

Then, you'll drive cross-country for two and a half hours until you reach tonight's destination of Carlingford—a medieval village at the heart of the Cooley Peninsula on Ireland's northeast coast. Visit King John's Castle, a small fortress that delivers big views across Carlingford Lough and the Mourne Mountains. Legend has it that King John stayed here for three days in 1210 CE. The area is also a popular kayaking spot if you'd like to meet the resident seal colony up close.

Day 11: Discover Legends of "The Wee Country," Drive to Dublin

Catle Roche in sunset
The romantic ruins of Castle Roche at sunset

You'll make your way back to Dublin today, but first, linger in Louth, known as "The Wee County," as it's the smallest county in the country at 319 square miles (826 sq km). Stroll the narrow hilly streets of the port town Drogheda, gaze up at the towering St Laurence's Gate, visit majestic Millmount Fort, and—prepare yourself for a touch of the macabre—see the severed head of 17th-century saint Oliver Plunkett in St Peter's Church.

Explore the pretty fishing villages of Termonfeckin and Clogherhead, then stop off at the crumbling Castle Roche. The stone ruins form one of the most striking castles in Ireland—it once guarded the border of the province of Ulster and an Anglo-Norman territory known as "The Pale." Nearby lies the grave of King of Ireland Edward Bruce, brother of the Scottish king Robert the Bruce, killed in the battle of Faughert Hill nearby. 

Day 12: Visit the Guinness Storehouse & Depart

Don't miss a requisite visit to Dublin's Guinness Storehouse before your departure

Toast the end of your trip at the iconic Guinness Storehouse, the flagship factory of Ireland's most famous exports and one of the world's most popular tourist attractions. Learn the story of the brand's stratospheric rise across a seven-floor museum before taking in the 360-degree city views from the Gravity Bar

Your time on the Emerald Isle has come to an end, but hopefully, it won't be your last visit! Head to Dublin Airport to return your rental car and catch your flight home. Safe travels!

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Map

Map of Ireland's Wild Northwest - 12 Days
Map of Ireland's Wild Northwest - 12 Days