I have to start tipping my hat off to Michel Gold who was my first contact and guided me through the compiling of our itinerary. Thanks to his knowledge we scratch off visiting Bogota because of my wife tendency to altitude sickness. He also suggested the gastronomical tour in Cartagena. Michael also provided me with a list of things I should know before going to Colombia and the pro-environmental philosophy of the agency which I found appropriate.
Our guide in Medellin, Andres...
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I have to start tipping my hat off to Michel Gold who was my first contact and guided me through the compiling of our itinerary. Thanks to his knowledge we scratch off visiting Bogota because of my wife tendency to altitude sickness. He also suggested the gastronomical tour in Cartagena. Michael also provided me with a list of things I should know before going to Colombia and the pro-environmental philosophy of the agency which I found appropriate.
Our guide in Medellin, Andres Robledo young but experienced. He knows the ropes around Medellin; we when to center of the city and to the once infamous "Communa 13". The contrast of social stratus in Colombia is evident, yet the genuine friendliness was also evident wherever we went. Public servants were very professional from the police officers to the ticket vendor in the tramway. Street vendors were aggressive, but respectful.
Our driver in Medellin, Martin, master of the road. Experienced and patient, he can see problems before it happen. He gave me lots of confidence going up and down Medellin's hills. Great soccer fan of "Atletico National" verse in politics and history ( Pablo Escobar, Garcia Marquez, Social reforms...)
Our hotel in Medellin: Ecohub....it needs works. Internet was spotty at best, WIFI was good just around the lobby. We had to issues in our room. The fridge did not work and the land phone was disconnected. We reported both issues twice and they were never solved while we stayed there. Staff was helpful, but they need more people that speaks English and French. Location was great and in general the hotel was comfortable, clean and safe which is what matters, the rest can be fixed. Traffic in Medellin is crazy, there is nothing you can do about it.
Our guide in Cartagena, Luis Moron. Great energy, Luis knows Cartagena, he has many many qualifications, "Zumba and Scuba diver trainer, Chef, and tour guide." Luis knows the history of Cartagena and the best places, he was very flexible and altered our tour so we could visit Gabriel Garcia Marquez's museum, that was a plus for me that I have read everything he wrote. Cartagena is in constant "Carnaval" mode. People are joyful, simple, happy. Buy a hat as soon as you land or you will melt. What a freaking heat. I drank all the beer brands because of the heat. Luis was very patient with my wife about walking the historic streets of Cartagena with the bright sun and torching heat.
We went to a cooking class, "how to make ceviche"......it blew me away. Ceviche with Corvina fish, mango, coconut milk, and passion fruit juice. Two days later, after walking miles inside San Felipe Fortress, we had another cooking class with Luis and Leonor. Robalo fish fried in coconut milk and brown sugar, patacones, guacamole and rice also in coconut milk and tomatoes of a tree juice.
Our driver in Cartagena, Emerson, just like Martin in Medellin, patient and experienced, punctual and also great knowledge of beaches and resorts around Cartagena.
Out hotel in Cartagena, Armeria Real. Blown away by the size of our room, we get a duplex (two floor room). Super clean and comfortable. Staff, .........unpaired. Luis at the receptions, great suggestions for places to visit at night and restaurants and coffee shops. Waiters at the roof-top John and (..I forgot his name, but he has dental braces) great coctails and suggestion from their own restaurant.
Hotel Reviews
GHL Hotel Armería Real
Cartagena
Extraordinary. Amazing place. it is a 400 years old building converted to a hotel. Our room was a duplex, huge beds, two bathrooms. Staff, super willing to please. Luis at the front desk with great suggestions for places to visit and restaurants to eat. The waiters at the roof-top terrace great cocktails and suggestions to eat from the local restaurant.
Great location, everything is willing walking distance. Really good internet speed.
Authenticity & Character
It is a colonial building with a preserved architecture. Wooden floor, red roof tiles etc...
Location
Walking distance to everything. Restaurants of all kind and levels in any direction. Check this place "lavalotu". Around the corner from the hotel. They wash your clothes by the pounds. It is like US$10.00 for 10 pounds. Service in 2 hours.
Staff
Super friendly and willing to please.
Cleanliness & Comfort
Awesome.
EcoHub Hotel Medellin
Medellín, Antioquia
Great location, room was clean and comfortable. Staff is friendly, but if you don't speak Spanish, you might struggle to get things done. I have to give them 4 stars because we had two issues that were never resolved. The mini-fridge was not working properly. The land phone was disconnected. I checked it and the power source was not there. We reported the issued twice in 4 days, it was never fixed. Also the internet was spotty. WIFY was slow and just had the right speed when you stand around the lobby not in the room. That is a deal breaker.
Authenticity & Character
It is like any other mid-level hotel.
Location
It is in a good and save neighborhood. It has indoor parking, but it it an stretch if you want to visit the city center. You would have to depend on hired transportation.
Staff
Really willing to help. Everybody specially Brayn who handles the bar at night.
Cleanliness & Comfort
Our room was clean and comfortable, but walls were thing, I could hear people's conversation next door.
Activity Reviews
Medellín Transformation Tour
Medellín
it was worth to go up to comuna 13. Year ago it was considered the most dangerous place in Medellin. Social and political will are transforming this poor neighborhood into a vibrant, proactive community that is trying to pull themselves up. Many great murals and a genuine desire of the people to erase a bad reputation. Kudos to my guide Andres Robledo for explaining to me social-dynamic of this community.
Guides, Drivers and Staff
Martin made me feel safe in this place. He is from here.
Pop-Up Dinner (Envigado)
Medellín
The chef tried to surprise us with a Mango ceviche as an entry. It was too acid which is normal for most people in Colombia, but my wife's ulcer begged to differ. He tried something different and I will give him credit for that. This is like a blind date. The main dish was a mixed of several meat and rice. It felt like chow-main. It has too much soy sauce which surprise us because we were expecting something more Colombian.
There was an avocado salad. Rich creamy avocado with shopped vegetables.
Dessert was a souffle made out passion fruit. That was worth the night. I think he put some liquor in it and was amazing.
Quality of Experience
To the credit of the chef. We were tired and half full from a long day in the center of Medellin. So we were not that hungry.
Food
We were expecting a more traditional colombian dish. It felt more like chinese take out food.
Guides, Drivers and Staff
Martin, solid driver, he stayed with us since 8:30 AM to 10:00 PM. Traffic made our dinner really late.
Coffee-Culture Tour
Medellín
Amazing, a really well run farm trying to keep it environmentally correct. No pesticide, natural fertilizer. I learned so much about coffee. I drank such a good quality coffee. I saw so many birds and wild life. We even saw a capibara.
The person who gives you the tour ( I am so ashamed that I do not recall his name right now) knows coffee. He starts the tour by percolating coffee in front of you. Then you drink it and he explains the flavors, aromas and effects. The he takes you for an hour up the mountain trip. You see the coffee trees, flowers, and natural resources to keep it "natural".
As you walk up, you see and hear many kind of birds. They explain to you the whole process of producing coffee, from the sawing of the seeds, the grooming of the trees, the collection, and finally the roasting.
Quality of Experience
Extraordinary learning experience.
Guides, Drivers and Staff
Nothing special about driving in the mountains.
Transport
We have a good car. The road was not bumpy. Colombia has good roads.
Peñol Boulder & Guatapé Boat Trip
Medellín
I think this is the most overrated of all the points of interest in Colombia. There are 747 steps. You need to be in shape. The view is great, but is not worth a heart attack. Vendors are aggressive and overprice everything. Food choices are not that great too. Mostly local fried fish; bass and carpe.
If you like narco-tourism, then go ahead in the boat trip, the only thing worthy of it is to say later that you were close to one of the many Pablo Escobar houses in the area. It is a two hour ride from any direction to get here. The worse part is that "El Penol' is private property, you pay close to US$12.00 to get in. There is a church in town worth visiting for its architecture and wood-carved decorations.
Quality of Experience
Too much hipe, two hours ride, 5 minutes of thrill.
Food
Reduced choices, practically they forced you to between fried bass, tilapia or carpe. Ketchup was too sweet.
Guides, Drivers and Staff
My driver, Martin. Solid prudent driver.
Transport
I rode a good Renault SVU. Good for this kind of trip.
Walking tour in Cartagena's Historic Center
Cartagena
Rule number one: bring a hat.
Rule number two: bring a bottle of water.
Rule number three: bring comfortable shoes.
Rule number four: try to read about the history of slavery in Colombia before you arrive in the country.
My guide, Luis Moron was well versed on the colonial period of Cartagena, the revolution and current affairs of the city.
Quality of Experience
Bring a hat. It was raining heat.
Guides, Drivers and Staff
Transport
Street are leveled. Bring comfortable shoes and a bottle of water.
Streetfood Experience
Medellín
Medellin streetfood is mostly fried or bake. Too many to mentioned here, and to many to try in one day. There are several variations of croissant bread worth to try. Bunuelos, arepas and empanadas made of corn or wheat flour worth to try alone with the street coffee. There is no bad coffee in Colombia. Everybody try their best to percolate, roast and grind the best coffee possible. You need to try their banana bread. It is fresh fresh.
Guides, Drivers and Staff
Martin, mi driver in Medellin. Four words, master of the road.
Transport
It was Renault, a brand I have never drove on before. But the vehicle was appropriate Medellin's crazy driving.
Market Visit & Cooking Class
Cartagena
Cartagena's market Barzuto, is like any other third world market. Sanitary conditions are not premium. There is a chaotic traffic of people with merchandise coming and going in all directions. You need to be quick on your feet. Different sections of the market have different smells. You need to be mentally prepared for your nose to be assaulted by the smell of fresh blood, fish, pungent flames from the boiling pots with meat from animals like Capibaras and such, spices that you have never smelled before. On the other hand, you will see fruits from the Amazonian basin that you have never seen or tasted before. Great mangoes, supreme green bananas, guavas, grapes, etc. I suggest to bring a bottle of water to wash thoroughly whatever you might try to eat. Bring closed shoes.
Cooking classes. New windows to new flavors and way to cook ceviche. Corvina fish dipped into coconut milk with passion fruit juice, mangos cubes, rocoto sauce, red onions, green and red peppers infused with lime juice.
Robalo fish, dipped on coconut milk and brown sugar, patacones, guacamole with garlic shrimps. Rice with coconut milk and panera. Tomate juice from a very special tomato specie.
Quality of Experience
Once in a life time experience if you were not born poor in a third world country.
Food
It is a toss, you either love it or hate it.
Guides, Drivers and Staff
Emerson was a quiet, calculated, patient master of the road. He can see an accident happening 20 seconds before it does.
Transport
Agency provided a good air-condition vehicle appropriate for urban hustle.
Local specialist: Michael Gold