Triglav (Julian Alps)
Triglav is Slovenia's highest mountain (2864 m) and a symbol of national pride. Thus, climbing Triglav is an aspiration of many Slovenians! There is a local saying that every proper Slovenian has to summit Triglav once in his or her life. Summiting isn't too challening, but it's an very exposed climb on the ridge.
Climbing Triglav normally takes two days. On the first day, you start from the Krma (or Vrata) Valley (1000 m) and reach one of the huts below Triglav's summit. Most Slovenians choose Kredarica Hut, which is the main reason we prefer to avoid this hut and use Staničeva Hut (2332 m) instead.
From the valley to the hut it takes around 5 hours of easy hiking (1400 vertical meters). The following morning we climb on the very summit of Slovenia which takes around 2 to 3 hours. From the summit, with a bit of luck you can see all the way to the Adriatic coast on the south, the Dolomites on the west, and Austrian Hohe Tauern on the north. Them, we descend down the valley which takes around 4 hours.
Triglav North Face (Julian Alps)
Located in the heart of the Julian Alps National Park, you can find the highest summit of Slovenia Triglav. Reaching down to the Soca Valley, it's one of the biggest rock faces in Europe (1000m high and 3000m wide). It's a two-day challenge, and you must have a local certified guide to take on this project. There are two suitable routes for beginner climbers and adventurists. It's a Grade III climb with a 2-hour approach and around 3-hour climb. From there, you can walk one more hour to a mountain hut in order to summit Triglav the day after, or you can descend down into the valley. The total climb is 1300 m. with the approach.
Ridge climbs above Kamniška Bistrica (Kamnik Alps)
The steep rocky range of Kamniske Alpe offers some of the finest alpine climbs in Slovenia. You'll find easier hiking routes between the summits and through the col, which also has ridge spines with good rock climbing. One of the finest is Zeleniške špice, which is located on the north side of Kamniška Bistrica. You'll spend 2 hours approaching the ridge from the mountain hut on a nice trail. Once you get to the ridge, it's a technical Grade III climb.
The climb itself takes around 2-3 hours and is quite exposed. Once you are at the top, it takes around 2 hours to descend again to Kamniška Bistrica. To do this route yourself, you need to have significant rope skill and climbing experience. If you go with certificate local guide, he will be able to keep you safe at all times and allow you to enjoy the beautiful views and the excitement worry-free.
Other great ridge climbs in the Kamnik Alps include Turska Gora (S ridge), Veliki Greben, and Skuta (S ridge, E ridge).
SE Ridge of Mount Stenar (Julian Alps)
This ridge is also called 'Brojan’s Ridge', named after the first person to complete the ascent. It is a splendid Grade III climb and a great introduction to mountain climbing in Julian Alps. The approach is a 2 to 3-hour hike from Vrata Valley. The highlight of this relatively unknown climb is a truly magnificent view of the famous Triglav North Face, which you can enjoy on the climb and also on your descent from the summit of Mt. Stenar.
Safety & precaution
Only attempt any of these routes if you are prepared or have the guidance of an experienced and knowledgeable guide. Despite mountaineering being a very popular activity, accidents do happen. Most accidents are due to being physical and psychological unprepared, having inefficient and inadequate equipment, or lacking the skill and knowledge required for these climbs. It's also important that you're familiar with the trails and understand weather patterns in the mountains, especially in the Spring and Fall. For more information, check out our best tips and practices for safely trekking in the Slovenian Alps.