I will start out by saying that this was by far the most we have ever spent on a 2 week family vacation, not including the airfare to and from Japan. However, the itinerary looked great and covered 5 locations in total, so we decided to go for it. I can now say that I have zero regrets and feel like we got a lot of value out of working with Kimkim, and in particular with our travel specialist, Eleanor.
As background, My family lived in Tokyo for 6 months back in 2017, and I lived in Kobe for a few years back in the mid 90's, so I speak Japanese and we are familiar with the culture, getting around, etc. We started our planning several months ahead of time, corresponding with Eleanor over chat. For our trip in mid-June, we wanted to visit familiar spots in Tokyo, and also stop by Kansai (Kyoto or Osaka), Hiroshima, Koyasan, Hokkaido (for the cooler climate), and Okinawa. We ended up dropping Okinawa because we would be too rushed and the flights would be a challenge.
We made some adjustments to the initial itinerary to reduce the cost, but Eleanor had wisely recommended against public transportation in some cases due to the extreme heat and humidity in June, and because it would be challenging in some cases to get a taxi for 4 people plus a guide. In some locations, it was easier to book 2 hotel rooms instead of a single room that fit all 4 of us, and we were comfortable doing that with our 12 and 15 year old boys since we knew Japan was very safe compared to the US. While we were sorting out trip details, we booked our flights to Japan, taking into consideration airline and timing advice that Eleanor provided. Once we had all the major parts in place, we made our deposit!
In the months before the trip, Eleanor checked in periodically, and gave us updates as she reserved trains (Shinkansen/bullet train) and domestic flights. We also make some minor adjustments to itinerary before our departure due to unforeseen circumstances and, Eleanor also caught a discrepancy between the itinerary and our return date. We really appreciated her professionalism and flexibility during those moments!
When we finally started our trip, we really understood the benefits of working with a Kimkim travel specialist - their extensive local knowledge and excellent service! It was a luxury to have private transfers to and from the airports. We had 2 larger suitcases for the adults and the kids each had a smaller carry-on sized bag, but we also each had backpacks. Spaces tend to be tighter in general in Japan, so it was nice to not have to wrangle our luggage onto trains to get around. Eleanor also strongly recommended car service from Kyoto to Koyasan. While I have been to Koyasan a few times before and always took trains and buses, it made things much easier and more relaxing.
Eleanor checked in with us regularly, and we were able to make some other small changes to our itinerary after getting to Japan, such as adjusting pickup and train times. We also had a minor issue with the included breakfasts at one hotel that Eleanor promptly resolved.
The private tours were all very good - we had guides who spoke very good English and were well-prepared to tell us about the sites they took us to. In some cases we had a private car, and in other cases we took public transportation, and the guides took care of purchasing train, bus, and ferry fares as well as entry fees to attractions. The only part that wasn't included was lunch in the middle of the day, but our guides recommended places to eat based on our preferences. A highlight for us was the Moss Canyon (or Corridor, aka Koke no Kairo) and Lake Shikotsu tour. The hike was relatively easy and short, but the ecosystem in Moss Canyon was magical - we saw many different types of moss, spider, mushrooms, snails, etc. It was a chance to be more mindful and present during a busy trip. In retrospect, I would have had days with shorter itineraries as we were often more tired than expected due to the hot and humid weather, but worth noting that while Hokkaido was still pretty warm, the air was more dry, similar to what we're used to in California.
All of the accommodations were also good, though each had their pros and cons. We had a few places with laundry facilities onsite, and almost all had breakfast included. They were always within walking distance of restaurants and shops, though some were in more industrial areas. The standouts were Umekoji Kadensho in Kyoto -- which was entirely shoes-free and had both private and public onsen baths -- and Rengejoin, a buddhist temple in Koyasan. I had stayed there before a few times, but this time we stayed in the stunning Himalaya suite.
All in all, we had a fabulous trip and were so grateful for the planning and support throughout from Eleanor!
Hotel Reviews
Conveniently located near Tokyo Tower and Daimon station. There are many convenience stores just steps away, and plenty of restaurants, izakaya, and bars within easy walking distance. That said, it's a fairly quiet neighborhood, so if you are looking for lots of excitement and nightlife, it may. not be the best location. We stayed here with our 2 kids, 12 and 15. They had their own room, but we felt like it was very safe. The room was clean and well-stocked with eco-friendly amenities. We actually stayed here twice -- at the beginning and end of our trip -- it was close to some stores and restaurants that we wanted to visit in Roppongi and Azabujuban.
The staff is friendly and attentive, always willing to help to call a taxi. There are refreshments and coffee in the front lobby as well as a lovely library lounge stocked with a variety of books.
We enjoyed the healthy breakfasts with plenty of Japanese and western foods. The only small snag we had was that we were supposed to have breakfast included for all of us (4 people, 2 rooms) and initially we were told only one room included breakfast. We had help from our travel specialist to correct this but the internal hotel system and process were a bit inefficient in handing the situation.
There were coin-operated (and IIRC they might have also accepted credit card payment) laundry machines on the 4th floor (both washer and dryer) but it sometimes takes some patience and planning as there were only two machines for the entire hotel.
Location
Easy walk to Tokyo Tower and Daimon station.
Kyoto Umekoji Kadensho - Private Bath Facility
This place was amazing - our favorite stay during our 2 weeks in Japan. When you first walk in, you are greeted by staff who take your luggage and direct you to put your shoes in lockers (2 people per locker). The locker keys are kept at the front desk in exchange for your room key. The entire facility has tatami mats, which felt so nice and cool under our feet. On the way to our room, we passed an area where we could pick from 4 or 5 different types of pillows (buckwheat, double fold, etc.)
The room itself was quite spacious - we had 4 futons on raised platforms. I pushed two together as a makeshift king bed for hubby and me. The fridge was stocked with bottled water. There were pajamas that you could wear throughout the facility in the rooms, and you can exchange them at the front desk if you need another size. Near the lobby there is also an area where you can pick out a yukata (cotton kimono robe) and obi (belt) in assorted sizes and colors.
Other amenities include a lounge where you can get probiotic drinks, filtered water, popsicles, and noodles, selection depending on the time of day. In the welcome lounge, there were cold teas and sake, plus a sweet treat in the evening.
One of the highlights of this hotel was the public and private baths. We were feeling modest, so we opted for the private bath - there are 5 rooms available on a first come, first serve basis. Often there was no wait, and when we did have to wait, it was a fairly short time. There are no showers available in the bath facility as guests are asked to shower in their rooms before bathing. The private baths were beautiful - each one had a different shape and there was a lovely but secluded outdoor space.
The breakfast buffet was outstanding. The selection included different types of traditional Japanese foods, but also some western, Korean, and Chinese dishes plus a salad bar, cereals, and desserts. It was almost overwhelming! If you go during peak periods you may have to wait for a table, but the turnover was fairly quick.
Last but not least, there are onside massages available. We went for massages twice during our stay, and my favorite was the foot massage - perfect after a long day of walking in the extreme heat and humidity. It was pretty easy to get a same day appointment, and prices were very reasonable.
This is truly a special place that I hope to visit again if I'm ever in Kyoto.
Authenticity & Character
Modern facilities with a traditional feel. Amazing amenities.
Location
Right next to a train station that is one stop away from Kyoto station. In the immediate area, you can find restaurants, conbini, and drug stores, but it's a pretty industrial area.
Staff
Some are more knowledgeable than others, but all are courteous and professional.
Cleanliness & Comfort
Immaculate!
fav HIROSHIMA HEIWAODORI
Hiroshima
This was probably my least favorite accommodation on our trip. It was fairly conveniently located, but the front desk staff was unfriendly at check-in, and the included breakfast only had 2 choices (yogurt with granola and an egg sandwich) that you had to select ahead of time. We ended up just getting breakfast for our kids at a nearby conbini. There wasn't much in the immediate neighborhood, but you could walk to Hondori fairly easily, though that mean passing through a red light district. It never felt unsafe, but there were a lot of signs with provocative pictures of young women, and when we walked through with our tour guide she was a little embarrassed. The room was well appointed with a mini kitchen and in-unit washer dryer, which we made good use of. Not a bad stay, but I wouldn't choose to stay here again.
Location
Convenience store nearby, and walkable to Hondori, but the immediate area seemed like a red light district with a lot of hostess bars, love hotels, and massage parlors. Short taxi or bus ride to Hiroshima station.
Staff
The person at the front desk when we checked in was not friendly, so they didn't leave us with a good first impression of the hotel.
Cleanliness & Comfort
Decent sized room with a washer/dryer in the bathroom
I have stayed at this temple a few times before, starting with a couple of hiking trips in the mid 90s. At that time, we took the train partway and then hiked up to the mountain top. We had basic tatami rooms with several futons and not much else, which was perfect for my budget at the time. I remembered the shojin ryori made with mountain vegetables and koya-dofu as well as a sesame tofu. Then I brought my husband to Rengejo-in during his first trip to Japan in 2008, and he fell in love with it too. In fact, we came straight here from Kansai International. On that trip, we also woke up early to join the 6 am chanting ceremony. The food was delicious and generous in portion. I remember that the doorways were all lined with paper --very traditional -- and we could faintly hear other guests coughing in the distance. Not a problem, but part of the rustic nature of staying in a Buddhist temple.
This time, we brought our 2 kids, 12 and 15, with us. We got a ride directly there from Kyoto. Our room, booked by our Kimkim travel specialist, was the beautiful and luxurious Himalaya Junior Suite. It was truly stunning, with a beautifully decorated large tatami room with closets and private bathroom with floor to ceiling windows overlooking a garden. We had a small table with a teapot and snacks, and a mini-fridge and safe. The room was also stocked with yukata and a short jacket that you could wear over it for cooler weather (not necessary in June!) The bathroom was very modern, with a washlet (and lid that opens and closes automatically), beautiful shower and bathtub, and two sinks! The cherry on top: a fancy hairdryer and skin care products.
To be honest, I saw how pricey this room is to book, and I'd never choose it for myself, but I am grateful that Eleanor chose this to give us an unforgettable stay. It's worth noting that there are standard rooms in the shokubo with a shared bathroom that are much less pricey. After a quick trip to Family Mart (about 20 minutes away on foot) to stock up on extra snacks for the kids, we adults joined the 5 pm meditation, which started with a brief explanation in English and Japanese, followed by about 40 minutes of meditation. I've gone to a meditation center a couple of times, so it wasn't too bad to sit for 40 minutes. Then we enjoyed our sumptuous dinner in a private dining room, which was served on 2 raised trays with several small dishes (different types of tofu, rice, pickles, vegetables, mushrooms, tempura, soup), and they brought in a third tray with more dishes after we sat down on our cushions. The meal looked like a work of art and we loved it, but our kids filled up mostly on rice --one prefers meat and the other is still picky about vegetables. Luckily we were supplied with an extra large bowl of rice and a pot of green tea for refills.
There isn't much to do otherwise, but you can walk around the gardens, and there is a small common room with a TV. We ventured out for a walk and found several other temples and shokubo very close by, as well as a pagoda and children's park. We also discovered an izakaya (Ima-chan) nearby on the opposite side of the street as well as several vending machines with hot and cold beverages and snacks, but we were still full from dinner (I ate some of my kids' food too because it was so tasty and healthy).
There are baths for men and women, but the men's bath was already full so we used the bath in our suite instead.
The next morning, we checked out and left our luggage near the front for a few hours while we took the bus (about 10 min walk from the temple) to Okuno-in. Another lovely and memorable stay at the beautiful Rengejo-in!
Authenticity & Character
I've been coming here since almost 30 years ago. A lot of deep Japanese Buddhist tradition with some modern updates.
Location
Short walk from the bus stop and many other temples nearby.
Mitsui Garden Hotel Sapporo West
Sapporo
This is a nice no-frills hotel with a public bath and very convenient location just a block from Sapporo station. You can choose amenities from the lobby. We had two rooms for our family of four, with our kids across the hall from us. We saw a lot of Asian tourists, and very few Westerners. On the second floor there is a restaurant that has free drinks and snacks available in the evening (though the desserts had always run out when we checked), plus some vending machines, and ice machine, and men's and women's baths with one coin-operated washer dryer in each.
The room was very clean but pretty compact, and every day we got 2 bottles of water and fresh pajamas from housekeeping. The breakfast buffet wasn't huge but had a more-than-adequate selection of Japanese and western foods and a chef who prepared the crepe of the day.
The front desk staff were always very courteous and helpful. I missed the opportunity to take advantage of this, but the breakfast tickets could also be used at Kitano Gurume, a seafood market and restaurant that offers a free shuttle for both pick-up and drop off (reservation required). We don't eat much breakfast, so next time I'll definitely save my ticket to use at Kitano Gurume instead!
In addition to Sapporo station, there were a few department stores and underground shopping areas nearby, as well as plenty of restaurants, izakayas, and sake bars on nearby streets. It was a 15 or 20 minute walk to Ramen Alley and Tanukikoji shopping arcade. Because Sapporo is not humid like the places we visited in Honshu, it was quite pleasant to walk around in the city, especially in the evening.
Location
Close to Sapporo station, department stores, restaurants, conbini, izakaya, and bars. Easy walk to Tanukoji shopping arcade.
Activity Reviews
Lake Shikotsu Moss Corridor Hiking Tour
Sapporo
This tour was one of the highlights of our two-week trip in Japan! We met with Sumi, our guide, at the hotel lobby, and she introduced us to her colleague Taki. We could tell right away that they were outdoor enthusiasts based on the way their, gear, outdoor apparel, and healthy tans, somewhat rare for Japanese people. Sumi drove us in a minivan and it took about an hour from Sapporo to get to the Lake Shikotsu area. She gave us a bag with snacks in case we got hungry on the way. The scenery was already beautiful as we approached the lake.
We parked in a small one-car spot on the side of the road and walked through the forest to find the beginning of the trail through Moss Canyon. The pictures that we had seen online truly did not do this place justice. It was absolutely stunning with the vivid greens and so many beautiful, tiny details. The hike itself was only about 2 km and flat, but we saw multiple types of moss, a leaf that resembled snakeskin, mushrooms, snails, spiders, rocks, and trees eaten by termites. Sumi pointed out interesting things at the beginning, and then I found myself becoming more mindful and present as I noticed the breathtaking natural beauty around me. I felt calm and relaxed, and just so peaceful. When we finished the hike, we walked to a small beach on the lake and our younger son skipped stones on the water with Taki.
Then we had a delicious lunch near the Lake Shikotsu visitor center (also a good place for a pit stop) at a restaurant that featured sockeye salmon (himemasu). After our feast, we walked along the lake for a while, and enjoyed some ice cream before making our way back to Sapporo.
This tour was such a wonderful way to end our trip in Japan and left me wanting to visit Hokkaido again to experience more outdoor adventures.
Full Day Mt. Fuji with Lake Kawaguchi & Oishi Park
Japan
This was the first tour of our trip on the day after we arrived in Japan. Thanks to jet lag, we awoke early and met with our guide Watanabe-san, who had messaged me on WhatsApp the previous day to confirm our meeting time at the hotel lobby. He also asked about our meal preferences and food restrictions so that he could choose a suitable restaurant for lunch. Watanabe-san was also monitoring the weather conditions, especially the clouds, in the hopes that we would get a good view of Mt. Fuji. It was a pretty long drive from Tokyo -- about 2 hours -- but fortunately we were in a comfortable minivan with plenty of room. Our first stop was Lake Kawaguchi (aka Kawaguchiko), where we rode on a sightseeing boat that used to be a type of battleship. The top level had the best views, but was crowded, so we were happy to stay on the lower level in the shade and enjoy the gentle breeze, a welcome reprieve from the oppressive heat and humidity.
Then we went for an early lunch at Konami, which was a combination restaurant and boat rental store. Their featured dish was hoto, a wide noodle similar to udon that is a local dish from Yamanishi prefecture. Although it was a hot day, we tried hot noodles with tempura and fish -- yamame (trout) and wakasagi (pond smelt) were the local catch. They also had shrimp, pork, and other seafood and meat options.
From there, we headed to Oishi Park, which had beautiful flower gardens and a view of Mt. Fuji. We had a decent view except for some stubborn clouds that obscured the peak. The park was very crowded with tourists taking selfies, so we moved through fairly quickly before stopping by a souvenir shop, mostly for the shelter and air conditioning.
The next stop was Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengen Shrine, a Shinto shrine complex at one of the Mt. Fuji trailheads. There is a nice gravel walkway from the road lined with statues. It wasn't too crowded, which was nice. We learned that this used to be a Buddhist temple and Shinto shrine, but during the Meiji period, the government tried to suppress Buddhism.
When we finished the planned itinerary, it was on the early side, so our tour guide offered other options where we might still get a peek at Mt. Fuji but we were already quite tired having just arrived the previous day and we wanted to get early dinner in Tokyo. So we headed back, and I believe we all enjoyed a nice nap on the way.
Guides, Drivers and Staff
Day Trip to Furano from Sapporo
Sapporo
The Day Trip to Furano from Sapporo was mostly well-coordinated, but there was a misunderstanding about the start time due to lack of prior communication, which led to our guide Yuko waiting for us for about an hour. It was resolved, but could have been avoided with clearer communication.
Yuko met us in our hotel lobby and showed us to a brand new luxury minivan driven by Aya. She kindly brought a bag of snacks for the ride to Furano, which was an arduous 2-1/2 hours. We stopped midway at a Family Mart for a bathroom break.
Our first site in Furano was Farm Tomita, which featured melons and lavender. It was teeming with large tour groups, mostly Chinese and Korean, so it was quite crowded and busy. It was a hot and sunny day, but fortunately Hokkaido is not humid like the places we had visited on Honshu. The lavender fields were absolutely stunning. There were many different types that varied in color and flowering times, and we had beautiful views of the active volcano Tokachidake (Mt. Tokachi). Here, we had a snack consisting of lavender and melon ice cream and a juicy wedge of melon, both delicious. Then we walked through the fields a bit more and bought lavender-themed souvenirs at one of the shops.
Next was lunch at Furano Resort Orika, a golf resort up on a hill. The restaurant had beautiful views of the mountains, and the negi toro lunch set was quite delicious, but I made the mistake of trying a red Hokkaido wine that was disappointingly bad. There was a nice gift shop where we picked up small gifts for my golf-loving brother-in-law.
Our next stop was Shikisai-no-Oka the Panoramic Flower Gardens. You could explore the flower fields on a tram or drive a golf cart. We chose the freedom and privacy of our own golf cart. So many beautiful and colorful flowers!
From there, we intended to visit Biei Pond (aka Blue Pond), but there was a long line of cars waiting to enter the parking lot, so we decided to visit Shirahige waterfall first. The water was a bright blue color due to aluminum hydroxide from volcanic activity. The nearby onsen looked like it would be worth checking out on a future visit. We drove by Biei Pond again but the line had only grown, so we opted to head back to Sapporo, but Yuko, knowing that we like wine, arranged a quick stop at Furano Winery where we sampled a few wines and bought some Hokkaido cheese for a snack.
Full Day Hiroshima & Miyajima Tour
Hiroshima
Our guide for this tour was Yumi-san. We traveled mostly on public transportation. First, we took a bus to Hiroshima station, a short train ride, and then a ferry to Miyajima. We could see the giant torii right on the beach as we approached the island and learned that when the tide is high, it appears to be floating.
It was a really hot day, so we took our time walking around. The kids enjoyed approaching the deer that were roaming the island. We walked through the a street lined with shops where we sampled momiji manju, a maple leaf-shaped cake and local specialty. We also learned that oysters (kaki) were another local specialty, but were out of season when we were there in mid-June, so the grilled oysters we saw vendors making were likely frozen.
We then walked on a path along the beach towards Itsukushima shrine, dedicated to the three sisters and goddesses of the sea. On the way back, we sampled some cold beers from Miyajima brewery with some fried oysters and browsed souvenirs. Our kids were not hungry yet, so we took the next ferry back. We saw large groups of school children in uniform arriving, and felt grateful that we had come to the island early. On the other side, we grabbed a quick lunch at a cafe.
After this, we hopped on a tram. We were originally scheduled to visit Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and Museum, but the Emperor and Empress happened to be there that day, so we just briefly stopped by the Atomic Bomb Dome. We were surprised to see demonstrators angrily protesting the Emperor's visit, 80 years after the bomb, because the Emperor at that time refused to end the war and prevent the devastation.
Then we took taxis to Hiroshima Castle, which had some air conditioning but also a lot of stairs to climb. Our kids enjoyed seeing various swords and armor. There was a nice 360-degree view of Hiroshima from the top of the castle.
Last stop for the day was Shukkeien Garden, which was lovely, but we were hot and tired at that point so we briefly stopped in the nearby museum's gift shop for a cold drink before heading back to our hotel to cool down and rest.
Guides, Drivers and Staff
We learned a lot of local history and culture at the various sites
Visit the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park & Museum
Hiroshima
This was shorter tour that we added to our trip when we found out that the Peace Memorial Park wouldn't be accessible on the previous day's tour due to a visit from the Emperor and Empress. We met our guide Remi at our hotel and walked to a tram stop to get to the park.
Standing in the park and ground zero (where the atomic bomb was detonated) was a somber and heavy experience, especially hearing about the devastating injuries, deaths, and ongoing suffering that resulted. At the same time, it was touching to see the schoolchildren at the Children's Peace Monument saying prayers and singing songs to pay their respects to the victims and advocate for world peace. As Americans, we remarked that we never learned and fully understood the human impact of the bomb on innocent citizens.
It was another scorching hot and humid day, so after walking through the park and seeing the flame, we entered the Museum. Our visit started with a short film where we heard survivor's stories. The imagery was often graphic and could be disturbing, but it really got the point across about the horrors of nuclear weapons. Then we walked through the museum at our own pace while Remi waited for us in the lobby. Again, a lot of graphic images and written stories, but highly educational. It was surprising to hear that former president Obama was the first sitting US president to visit Hiroshima, and there was an exhibit with his letter and an origami crane that he folded.
After this, our guide took us to a fun kaiten sushi place in Hondori for lunch, where the food and drinks came on a conveyor belt. The kids really enjoyed that. Finally, Remi accompanied us back to our hotel where we picked up our luggage and went to Hiroshima station to catch our train to the next destination. She kindly watched our bags while we browsed a few stores at the station. When we said good-bye, she gave us a Hiroshima postcard and a small origami crane made of beautiful printed paper with a thank-you note. A very nice touch.
Guides, Drivers and Staff
Kyoto Sightseeing Tour with Sake Tasting
Kyoto
Our guide in Kyoto was Hector. It was another very hot and humid day, and luckily our hotel was right next door to the train station. We traveled to Kinkakuji by train and bus. There were a lot of tourists there taking selfies, so we moved through fairly quickly while Hector told us about key points of interest. We got matcha ice cream while waiting for the bus and made our way to Nijo castle. We watched new Shogun series not long ago, and it was interested to see rooms and scenes that were reminiscient of the show. The kids also found Nijo castle interesting because there were stories of samurai and ninjas.
From there we took a taxi to Tanukikoji, a shopping arcade with many food shops and restaurants. It was too crowded for us, however, so we ducked into a side street and found a little brewery that served pizza.
Our last stop was the Gekkeikan sake museum, where we watched a short film explaining the sake making process and then browsed the museum. At the end, we were able to taste from a wide selection of sakes.
We were originally scheduled to also visit Fushimi Inari Shrine, but it was getting late in the afternoon and we knew it would be crowded and hot, so we asked Hector to skip that part of the tour and returned to our hotel by taxi.
Guides, Drivers and Staff
